haircuts

Apologies for the long delay in posting, the internet here is now quite spotty, mostly because of the fact that the entire campus is rigged up to one wireless connection, so the best time of the day to go online is early morning, and those of you who know me, know that I am not a morning person… So, for a while at least, blog entries are likely to be scarce.

One thing that I’ve been meaning to write about, though, is haircuts. I love getting haircuts in foreign countries, because they are so cultural, and it is the type of thing that is so commonplace that most folks don’t think of it that way. Perhaps my most favorite was one that I got in the Yucatan Peninsula in Mexico, the barber maybe said three words to me in total, did not seem to care about my interest in style, and gave me an awesome haircut that matched my equally ridiculous moustache. It was a good day.

In South Asia, haircuts are fairly cheap, in Nepal I was able to get them for about .25c, and here in Bhutan they usually around .75c. Which is good, because I hate spending money (side note, I rarely pay to get a haircut in the US, since its stupidly expensive for someone who just gets a buzz cut, many thanks goes to my Mom who has cut my hair since I was a little kid).

I used to get shaves in Nepal, which were done with a straightedge and were a very nice luxury, but the combination of a lot of beard hair and sensitive skin made me bleed quite a bit, so I haven’t gotten that done out in Bhutan yet. But they do shave the line of your hair with a straightedge, which produces a sensation not unlike a catscratch and which I oddly like.

But my favorite thing is the end, barbers out here always give you at least a short head massage. It’s a bit tricky because if they go too long, some will claim it as an extra service and try to charge extra for it, but you usually get the first minute or so free. The massage, by the way, doesn’t really feel “good” the barber basically gives your head a rub-down, which feels nice on muscles, but there aren’t many muscles on your scalp. They also basically form fists and hit you softly with the bottom of their fist. Why or how this tradition spread is of great interest to me.

Of course, it’s a rare time when a chilip gets a haircut out here, so often I get an audience, which is always mildly embarrassing and kind of funny. These pics are ones Rachel took on our trips when I got haircuts. The second shot was of when the crowd got so big she couldn't even take a photo of me anymore!

Wall art (Parental Guidance is suggested)

One of the cool things about Bhutan is the architecture. The government has made it a rule that all buildings must follow traditional architectural styles, in an attempt to avoid the cement-box style of buildings that plague the rest of South Asia. The result is that all buildings have at least some flair, and most have quite a bit of art worked into them.

Bhutan also has a unique style of wall art that I immediately shared a sense of camaraderie with. Namely, it’s penis art. Yes, penis art. Bhutanese people draw these on the outside of their homes for a number of reasons, some say it’s a sign of fertility (duh!) and others say it harkens to a somewhat crazy monk whose main lesson was for people not to take life too seriously (one of his more famous methods was to go around hitting people on the head with a wooden phallus, another tradition that continues at some festivals to this day).

This one is from Phobjika valley, and was on a hotel. Still not sure why it is on a cup.

This second one was from Trongsa, and features some truly fuzzy balls.

Something tells me this bar might not be the safest place to go by oneself...

This last one is my favorite, its here in Thimphu, and is probably the most commonly photographed wall art in the country. I mean, who doesn't want a penis fighting a dragon on the side of their house.

I’m sure I’ll be posting more of these as I travel (there aren’t too many in Thimphu, which is too modern, but you see more when you’re in rural Bhutan) so stay tuned!

I made these!

I have a bit more free-time here than I typically do in the States, which has enabled me to be a bit more crafty than normal. Yesterday, my friend Goenpo and his family came over and we constructed the bookshelf you see below for my desk. See, I like big desks, and the one I have is simply too small. A big desk is important, especially since I need to have big thoughts, huge thoughts, potentially earth-shattering thoughts for my dissertation and need room for them to sit for months at a time before being again encountered. That is how a dissertation is written btw.
The shelves were simple and rough, but I really enjoyed making them, carpentry is a nice break if you don't have to do it all the time. Anyways here is the thought-machine:


I also have recently begun to learn knitting, inspired by one of my friends in Portland, he showed me that knitting isn't just for the ladies, and is in fact one of the sexiest things a dude can do (ladies, can I get an amen?). My first project was a hat I made for Rachel's birthday, it finished a couple months late (I started about a month late...) and isn't exactly "well-made" but she humors me from time to time by wearing it. My second project were these fingerless mittens, which I'm actually fairly proud of:


The glasses are connected because they were the only thing I had for a stitch holder. I've been using patterns from the internet, which is a bit difficult because I have only found 1 size of circular needles out here, and its quite small. So everything is a bit makeshift, just the way I like it.

King's Birthday roadtrip

Last Monday was the King's 31st birthday (yes he is younger than me, which makes me feel like I could have accomplished more with my life thus far, like become king of a small country...). Thankfully, it takes a full three days to celebrate a monarch's birthday, making it a five day weekend! And, since school is about to start on tuesday, Rachel and I decided to do a bit of exploring.

Saturday: Drove out to Phobjika, a beautiful high-altitude valley where the majority of the world's remaining Black-necked cranes come to over-winter. There is a wetlands in the valley floor, and the cranes spend much of their time there during the day, eating dirt or whatever it is that cranes eat. They're huge, beautiful birds (standing over 4' 6") and about 250 of them overwinter in this tiny village. We also got to see yaks in the valley, which was a first for Rachel. Luckily they didn't charge the car. Unfortunately there was no electricity and so it was a pretty cold night, especially since I was a gentleman and gave my sleeping bag to Rachel and somehow lost my top blanket in the middle of the night. I had no idea until the morning.





Sunday & Monday: The next day we drove from Phobjika to Trongsa, which is in the middle of the country. We found a fantastic resort just outside of town that had super comfortable beds, a bathtub (YES!!!), a couple ponds, and was just generally comfortable. AND we got a good rate, so we decided to stay for two nights. Trongsa was super relaxed, got to see the school children putting on a big performance for the king's birthday which mostly consisted of coordinated dances in a big soccer field. Unfortunately the new museum there was closed for the holidays, but I did manage to talk our way into the Dzong w/o a permit (mostly because of my nepali language skills) which was really beautiful and is where the first two Kings of Bhutan ruled from. This photo is of a massive cedar tree in front of the Dzong.


Tuesday: We got up a bit late b/c the electricity had gone out all night, and began the journey back to Thimphu. We drove to Punaka, which is only a couple of hours from Thimphu (note, while the whole journey was only like 100 miles of driving, the roads are all mountain roads, and maximum speed is around 25mph and usually closer to 15). We again stayed at a fairly nice resort, only to discover that our bed there was merely a box springs (I'm sure the delux rooms got the mattress), so it was a bit of a rough night. We got to see the Punaka Dzong as well, which featured an incredible prayer room with huge golden Buddha statues. Can't take photos inside the Dzong's but here is one of the outside of it:



Wednesday: Got up early, and headed back to Thimphu. I've got a couple more stories from the trip, including a more detailed explanation of Dzongs, and Bhutanese phallic wall art, but I don't want to overwhelm the reader. So, more to follow!

Health

Now, for those readers who were with me back when I was in Nepal, you likely remember that much of the year was spent with some sort of stomach issue. I had dysentery (both amoebic and bacterial), giardia, worms, typhoid fever, you name it, I had it at one point or another. It sort of became just a fact of life out there, and I was prepared to go through another year of that, if need be. (Of course, I didn't really dwell on that when explaining life out here to Rachel)

Thankfully, we thus far have been quite healthy, the occasional loose stool, but that's nothing big. But last Friday, I got my first Bhutanese illness, a cold. Actually I'm happy to have it just be a cold, it wasn't terrible, mostly coughing and headachy for a couple of days, and it was a nice excuse to relax for a bit, but it reminded me how our lives here have been much healthier compared to time spent in India and Nepal. Its really been quite nice actually. And to be honest, Rachel has just started a course of antibiotics for stomach issues, but it wasn't nearly so bad as what both she and I have had in the past, so I don't mean to scare anyone off.

Yeah, its really nice to be healthy, something to definitely be grateful for.

Happy New Year!

Thursday was Losar, the New Year celebration for China, Tibet, Bhutan and other parts of Asia. Actually, Bhutan has at least five New Years (that's a lot of partying!) depending on who and where you are in the country. Losar is the official one, and the one largely celebrated in Thimphu. Most folks got thursday and friday off for the holiday, and headed to the hills for picnics and kuru (dart) throwing competitions.

I went on a really nice hike with a couple of bhutanese friends, a nice flat one, which is rare in this part of the world. Its on a hillside overseeing Thimphu, right by the Bhutan Broadcasting Service tower, and for some reason, the place is literally littered with prayer flags. There's a whole lot of auspiciousness going on over there.

something different

I had pig's head for lunch today.

Phuntsholing

Last weekend Rachel and I went to Southern Bhutan, which more or less means lower elevation Bhutan. It was a nice change to not need a room heater at night and to be able to cruise around in a t-shirt in the afternoon. Phuntsholing is only about a 100 mile drive from Thimphu, but it takes about 5 hours, as the road gets continually worse as you get further from either town. Mostly its due to the fact that the roads have to be build on 80+ degree slopes and mudslides happen during the monsoon season, washing out the road in various places. Its an incredible engineering hurdle, if you think about it. So for a good third of the trip the road is beset with small boulders that have fallen onto the road and is down to one lane of dirt while construction crews try to repair the damage before the next monsoon season. Not the most relaxing drive I've ever done.

But the town itself was super fun. I had thought that Phuntsholing was fairly well visited by western tourists, but Rachel and I were a bit of a spectacle, with many more stares and random shouts of "HELLO!" than we get in Thimphu. At one point when we sat down to play a game of cards during a break at an archery tournament we became the new spectator sport, with a crowd of no less than a dozen kids and half as many adults. My nepali language skills never fail to amuse/astound people, but they remain very rusty.

We also got to see crocodiles, which was a highlight for me. They didn't do much, but they were fairly huge. We saw both Muggar and Gharail crocodiles some of the largest freshwater crocs in the world. The Gharails are the ones with the skinny snouts, which they evolved for quick movement to eat small fish at the expense of strength. The bulb on the tip of the nose is found only in males and is apparently used for mating calls/displays, which is where the old saying comes from "the bigger the wierd nose growth the bigger the ..."


All in all it was a good trip, definitely beat a day in the office.

Seattle thinking about GNH

Exciting news I came across the other day, it looks like Seattle is interested in converting GNH to their city governance. Check out the newsclip:



exciting times. If you want to take their happiness survey, it can be found here:
http://www.sustainableseattle.org/survey/GNH/en/
I'd be very interested to see your wellbeing score, if you're willing to share.

P.S. I promise my next blog will be something from me, I've just been hunkered down working on grants and publications the last week. But I think we're heading to S. Bhutan tomorrow!

The Prime Minister on Educating for GNH

I stumbled upon this video today. I'm thinking I'll show it to my students on the first day of class. There are some really enlightened people out here

Yeti sighting... almost

Our New Ride

Things are pretty quiet up at the college, we're in the midst of a 2 month break, and so all of the students and most of the faculty have gone to warmer regions. Since much of my research will be in different parts of the country, we decided to buy a car. We we're really in much of a rush, and mentioned it in passing to the administrative manager Tshering (who is quickly becoming our "fixer"), and a couple of hours later she called to let us know that she had found the car, talked down the price, and that they would arrive on Monday so we could check it out. Here it is!



Please note the awesome decals. This is a major selling point.


One thing to note about cars in S. Asia, they are generally smaller, the big cars are mid sized suvs, and only super-important people drive those. As you can see, we have a pretty small car, more like a go-cart than a than anything. If you think I'm joking, then check out this photo of me driving:


Actually, maybe its more like bumpercars. Since you don't really go faster than 25mph here (the roads aren't exactly straight) and every time I've hit someone they just think it's hilarious.